My gyro club, Peach State Rotorcraft Club, is promoting the following fly-in:

http://peachstaterotorcraft.org/event/2016-wrens-fall-fly

I will be there with my rebuilt Center Line Thrust Air Command Gyrocopter with a newly installed Rotax 582. 

Aviomania Gyrocopters

Aviomania Gyrocopters Website

Retirement Activity

In less than 3 years I will retire from my current position and will be able to do pretty much anything, anywhere with some limits.  Possible activities I am considering, in no particular order, include becoming a dealer for a gyroplane manufacturer and or golf instructor or basketball coach.

There are a couple of possibilities for working with gyro manufacturers including Air Command and or Aviomania.  I enjoy building and helping others build these machines.  I would need to attend Rotax engine maintenance classes and purchase a two place machine to use for demonstrations.  Choosing this activity would allow me to simultaneously teach people to play golf.

I have been a teacher my entire life and have taught a number of people to play golf without compensation.  I would get certified by the United States Golf Teacher's Federation and work as little or as much as time would allow and at my discretion.

Except for the past 6 years, I have coached basketball for most of my adult life.   Choosing this profession again is somewhat dependent on where we are called to live.  My wife Danita has moved all over the country for my career.  Once I retire it will be her time for me to go where she is needed at the start of her new career as a licensed professional counselor.  If a basketball position came my way in that location, I could easily transition from teaching golf, but, not so easy, if I am selling gyroplanes.

Autogyrousa

http://www.autogyrousa.com/

BREAKING NEWS!
2016 is the first year of Autogyro USA's "Total Peace of Mind" Platinum Warranty. Total Peace of Mind is accidental damage coverage. If you are trained by one of Autogyro CFI'S and you happen to accidentally damage or total your aircraft, parts and labor to rebuild are included in the purchase price of your Autogyro gyroplane. A $5,000 deductible does apply.

Current model prices are as listed:
(*may fluctuate with euro to dollar exchange)
MTO SPORT: $65,555.80* (includes transponder, radio, instructor kit, *914 Turbo extra)
CALIDUS: $80,789.00* (includes transponder, radio, instructor kit, *914 Turbo extra)
CAVALON: $107,500.00* (includes transponder, radio, instructor kit, and 914 Turbo

Calidus Video

Here are pictures showing my new motor mounts and a link to my clubs forum showing the newly rebuilt Gray Head Rotax 582 I am getting from one of our club members, Scott Essex.

http://peachstaterotorcraft.org/comment/1677#comment-1677

MZ 202 Pictures

I recently removed my MZ 202 from my Gyro.  Here are the pics just before removal.  I am selling it and changing to a Rotax 582.  There is nothing wrong with the MZ, it just is not enough for my weight.  See my previous posts about the engine.

Check List

Here is a pre-flight and take off check list that I will tweak and use:

1.    Check Right tire and suspension for damage or bolts loosened or missing,

2.    Give the seat a bit of a push sideways to check secure, lay out the seat belts eyeing for defects,

3.    Check rotor head to stick functions for smooth and correct

4.    Check battery is firmly retained and wiring still looks ok,

5.    Look at frame and cheek plates top and bottom for any damage,

6.    Check the nose wheel and front leg for pressure, play or damage,

7.    Check instrument pod is secure and rudder pedals are functioning correctly, no damage nothing loose,

8.    Make sure yaw string is there and free to move,

9. Uncover pitot,

10.  Check frame and plates are not damaged,

11.  Check controls from left side for free movement and no pins or nuts having cracked their marker paint,

12.  Look for leakage of fuel tank, pump, hoses, drain fuel into a little jar and look for water,

13.  Check left side tire and suspension,

14.  Check seat belt half on left side is ok and secure,

15.  Check fuel cap,

16.  Check engine for leaks, oil, fuel,

17.  Remove muffler plug,

18.  Check all tie wires are in place so nothing can fall off and go thru prop,

19.  Check prop for general damage,

20.  Check pre rotator wheel assembly,

21.  Check rear of keel and plates, look for cracks in engine mount frame or brackets,

22.  Check left side of tail, straddle rear keel and push and pull prop into engine (check play) all bolts still safety wired,

23.  Check tail wheel is there and spins free,

24.  Check right side of tail, hinges ok, cable ends ok, pins and bolts all present and accounted for,

25.  Back behind right main, check engine mount frame, look for leaks and problems,

26.  Check the right side of rear frame and plates.

27.  Check right side of mast and plates again,

28.  If rotors are off, climb up and lift the rotor head bearing section (like trying to lift it off) to check for play, spin it feeling for smooth,

29.  Rotate main rotor pivot bolt which turns the pivot bearings to a new position then remove the pin, nut and remove the bolt' clean, inspect and re grease it,

30.  Check torque tube for any issues,

31.  Check heim joints,

32.  Check prerotator firmly attached, brackets and bolts good and retaining wire is attached if it were to fall off,

33.  Move the head thru its pivots for free movement whilst watching stick follows.

34.  Wiring secure and look for issues,

35.  Assemble the rotors, checking the hub bar visually,

36. Check the pins are still in the other side and bolt second blade, tighten and pin,

37. Check the bore of the teeter block and its bolts haven't cracked the marker paint,

38.  Put the rotors up and fit the cleaned and greased bolt, tighten up the nut and insert pin,

39.  Secure the rotors with a slack rope.

40.  Visually inspect both rotors and wipe if dirty,

41.  Add fuel,

42.  Note in the log book the date, hobs meter time, what I just did, what I found, what might need fixing/replacing soon, how much fuel went in, how old the existing fuel was,

43.  Prime Carbs,

44.  Ignition switches on,

45.  Avionics and strobe on,

46.  Throttle to 20%,

47.  Yell clear prop,

48.  Press starter button no more than 5 times,

49.  Warm to 212 degrees CHT,

50.  Check both ignition switches at 3500 rpm,

51.  Stop it, look again for leaks etc, then just stand back and give it a looking over. Any pilot friends there get asked to run an eye over it as well,

52.  Pull it out to the flight line to start of taxi area,

53.  Check throttle full to idle a couple of times,

54.  Throttle to 20%,

55.  Yell clear prop,

56.  Press starter button no more than 5 times,

57.  Warm to 212 degrees CHT,

58.  Untie rope, wrap it around gut and wear it like a belt,

59.  Face machine into wind or 10-11 oçlock to it (usual call) hand spin the rotors to about 30 ish,

60.  Get in, seat belt on,

61.  Give the prerotator a blast to get them to the hump or a bit better,

62.  Get onto the strip, stick back start take off roll,

63.  When the rotors are blurring and making all the right noises, nose wheel coming up,
64.  Ease stick forward and fly off